Beirut
Haven't logged for ages. I will try to make this fairly quick.
Work went really well, but I was kind of dead on my feet by the end of each day. Everyone was really happy with me, even though they didn't really see any output, and they asked for me to come back to present my final results. Very happy about that as I get a bit more time in Beirut. So I will be back at the end of next month.
My friend came over on the Thursday night, we had a quiet one on Thursday and then pushed the boat out from Friday onwards. Some highlights included:
Friday night in Mar Miakhel. So Mar Miakhel, and the adjacent district whose name escapes me, has the reputation for being the 'hipster' part of Beirut. Literally packed with really cool bars and a few clubs- any one of them would be one of the coolest places in London, IMO. We actually got stuck at the first bar that we went to, because after the first drink the barman asked us if we wanted to do (free) shots. We ended up doing about four free shots each, as well as many cocktails and beers. The barman also offered other people around us shots, and we ended up making friends with them. In the end, I think we drank $100-$150 of booze in addition to the shots- the barman charged us $40. We were shocked, saying "What the fuck, $40?"- the Barman looked sad thinking that we were complaining about how hight it was and said, "I knocked loads of things off!" Kevin, best barman in the world. After that we went looking for and found a club, we danced about 2AM. Not really my taste in music- it was sort of updated funk, but we still had a blast.
Saturday day trip to Chateau Kefraya. Mentioned in the Pub, we took a trip out to a vineyard in the Bekka Valley. Took one of the guys we met on Friday. Delicious fancy Lebanese buffet, delicious wine refilled regularly, a tour of where they make the wine, a wine tasting and trip out to where the grapes grow. It was pretty awesome. Got rid of a brutal hangover. The view:
Saturday night in Hamra. So we were hanging out in our hotel and we met a young Iraqi guy who had to flee Iraq because his father was investigating war crimes and people he was investigating were trying to get revenge on him by going after his family. He was a nice, cool guy, and took us to some to an amazing Falafel place and then to a strip of very cool bars not far from the hotel. They were less international and a bit younger because close to the largest university in Beirut. We went to one where we had the best cocktail I have ever had. Super cool friendly staff too. The bar:
Sunday pool party in Beirut. So we tracked down a hotel that had a pool party, went there. It was everything I hoped it would be- dance music, plenty of alcohol, massive Lebanese muscle-heads with tiny legs, plastic women in tiny bikinis tottering round in high heels. I guess people get there around midday and only stay until 4pm or so, but we stayed for a bit longer. One of the other guys we met on Friday came to join us. We had dinner, went back to the hotel. The pool party:
Sunday night in Hamra. So we went back to the bar we'd been to the night before, because the guy we were with had just moved to Beirut and didn't know the area. Also we wanted to drink the cocktails again. When we got there, there was an Egyptian DJ doing a set, he played for about 6 hours. He was amazing. Very relaxed, hypnotic dance music with some Arabic sounds very subtly interlaced into it. Like an Arabicized verion of "Ballearic" dance music (the kind of thing Ibiza is known for). There was hardly anyone in the bar, so we almost had him to ourselves. Apparently he was off to do a set in some big club in LA the following week. Smashed by the end of it.
Monday day by the pool. Pretty badly damaged by this point. After excellent Burgers for lunch, we found a more laid-back place, more of a regular swimming pool by the sea. We swam out into the Mediterranean out to a raft, swam back. Waves were quite high, more than a metre between top and bottom. You could get up the ladder onto the quay just by timing your approach- at the top of the swell the water took you almost to the very top of a 2m ladder, whereas at the bottom there was some distance to climb. That helped to shake off the hangover.
Overall, it was spectacular. Can't wait to get back. There are a tonne of places worth visiting, all about an hour or so out of Beirut. I can see myself visiting regularly.