Your hypothetical 1911 build

Lug's Spear

Purple Belt
@purple
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I've been eye balling parts and slide/frames lately as well as reading up on 1911 books that people suggest (JERRY KUHNHAUSEN THE COLT .45 AUTOMATIC - Brownells). Just curious as to what people would look for in their own custom 1911.

Here is somewhat of a template, feel free to include more details.

1911 size: Longslide, government, commander, officer
Caliber: .45, .40, 9mm, 10mm, etc.

Slide
Manufacturer:
Slide top: Flat, rounded, serrated, standard
Front serrations: Yes/No, style
Rear serrations: Style
Radius: Standard, ball, none, etc.
Extractor: Internal or external, lowered and flared or not, brand name
Firing pin: extended, standard, brand
Guide rod: length
Front sight: cut and brand
Rear sight: cut and brand
Barrel: brand, stainless or carbon steel, ramped or unramped
Bushing:

Frame
Manufacturer:
Capacity: High or single stack
Rail: Yes/No
Grip safety: Cut (ex: .250 contour, wilson combat), brand
Mainspring housing: flat or arched, stippling type, brand
Hammer: Style/brand
Mag release: standard or extended, brand
Trigger: Skeletonized, etc., brand
Slide stop: brand
Grip: Laser trace or no, brand type and style
Thumb safety: Widened or standard, ambi or standard
Magwell: Beveled or not
Magazines: Brand

Feel free to include links to manufacturers as well as price. Don't forget to say what finish you want it (stainless/blue/etc).

Here are some links to products if you need some ideas.
Caspian Arms Ltd.
Fusion Firearms
1911 Parts & Accessories | Wilson Combat
1911 Parts
Ed Brown Products, 1911, parts
Nighthawk Custom - Product Catalog - Parts & Accessories
Brownells Search : Handgun Parts - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools - BROWNELLS
MidwayUSA — Shooting Supplies, Reloading, Gunsmithing, Hunting, Ammunition, Gun Parts & Rifle Scopes
Parts
 
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I've always liked Wilsons Tactical Supergrade (and the Tactical Elite with the cone barrel)
wilson-combat-tactical-supergrade-1.jpg


Ed Browns Special Forces Carry:
IMGP2365.JPG


Not a big Kimber fan, but the Super Carry Custom looks nice:
st_kimber_super_carry_pro_a.jpg


Wow, just looked at the current Wilson prices. I couldn't afford to rebuy what I have from them.
 
I actually have the kimber crimson pro carry II. It's my only 1911 so I can't really complain, I like it. The finish on the slide and frame sucks, but aside from that it's been good to me. That's part of the reason I have been looking into building my own 1911. I can't justify spending all that cash at once. I would rather spend $300-$400 on the frame and then pick up the slide and other stuff over time. I battled with the thought of buying a caspian frame/slide and going all wilson combat with the parts. I know STI uses frames made by caspian, I hear they are really good.
 
Are you building this for competitions or any specific purpose?
 
Possibly IDPA one day, but for now it's more about learning how it works and finding value in doing it myself. I'm still in the process of reading the manuals I have. I'm not going to order any parts until I've read them. I want to fit most of the parts myself, but I will most likely end up having a 1911 gun smith in my area fit the barrel since it's the most important part. If your barrel has too much side to side play your accuracy sucks and if your barrel moves up and down too much you'll wear out your barrel and possibly damage your slide when it fails. I hope to avoid both of those issues when the time comes.
 
I don't wanna get too in depth because a built from scratch 1911 takes careful time and consideration.
Basic rundown for my ideal carry gun: Commander size 1911(4" bushingless bbl), bobtail frame, rear serrations only(scaled), .45acp, combat hammer, adjustable trijicon combat night sights, skeletonized adjustable trigger, full length guide rod, polished feed ramp, lowered and flared ejection port, beavertail w/ palm pad, Ed Brown "chainlink" frontstrap and mainspring checkering, smooth rosewood grips w/ torx srews, black self-lubricating finish.
 
I don't wanna get too in depth because a built from scratch 1911 takes careful time and consideration.
Basic rundown for my ideal carry gun: Commander size 1911(4" bushingless bbl), bobtail frame, rear serrations only(scaled), .45acp, combat hammer, adjustable trijicon combat night sights, skeletonized adjustable trigger, full length guide rod, polished feed ramp, lowered and flared ejection port, beavertail w/ palm pad, Ed Brown "chainlink" frontstrap and mainspring checkering, smooth rosewood grips w/ torx srews, black self-lubricating finish.

What kind of frame? Steel?
 
Can't say my 1911 tastes are too exotic, but it depends what I'd be using it for first. I generally prefer the full sized, 5", government length, I generally like most modern features like extended beaver tails and grip safeties, extended thumb safeties, a slightly flared magazine well, and adjustable target sights (like Bomar or something), and as for aesthetics, I prefer a two tone finish; black/blue slide with a matte stainless look for the frame and wooden grips, generally rosewood, with diamond shaped, cut checkering. A flat mainspring housing feels best in my hand. I like conventional ****ing serrations on the rear portion of the slide only (not the funky shit that S&W or Kimber sometimes does) and I don't like excessive rollmarks advertising to everyone what brand 1911 I have. FLGR or not doesn't really matter to me as long as it doesn't make takedown a bitch. I don't know enough about the metallurgic aspects of 1911s like MIM, bar stock, stamped metal, etc. to really have an opinion on the matter.

All that said, I think I could be perfectly happy with a Springfield Range Officer or Ruger SR1911 when the time comes to own a 1911 of my own. However, if the SASS bug bites me hard enough and I decide to try Wild Bunch, I've definitely got to have a bare-bones, GI style 1911.
 
The wait time for a full custom can be several years. Instead I ordered an Ed Brown Executive Elite. Government, .45 ACP, blued, 10-8 rear sight, gold bead front sight.

I thought about adding a recessed crowned barrel and custom text on the barrel bushing.
 
Can't say my 1911 tastes are too exotic, but it depends what I'd be using it for first. I generally prefer the full sized, 5", government length, I generally like most modern features like extended beaver tails and grip safeties, extended thumb safeties, a slightly flared magazine well, and adjustable target sights (like Bomar or something), and as for aesthetics, I prefer a two tone finish; black/blue slide with a matte stainless look for the frame and wooden grips, generally rosewood, with diamond shaped, cut checkering. A flat mainspring housing feels best in my hand. I like conventional ****ing serrations on the rear portion of the slide only (not the funky shit that S&W or Kimber sometimes does) and I don't like excessive rollmarks advertising to everyone what brand 1911 I have. FLGR or not doesn't really matter to me as long as it doesn't make takedown a bitch. I don't know enough about the metallurgic aspects of 1911s like MIM, bar stock, stamped metal, etc. to really have an opinion on the matter.

All that said, I think I could be perfectly happy with a Springfield Range Officer or Ruger SR1911 when the time comes to own a 1911 of my own. However, if the SASS bug bites me hard enough and I decide to try Wild Bunch, I've definitely got to have a bare-bones, GI style 1911.

That gives a pretty good visual. What kind of hammer would you put on it? As far as MIM and bar stock, supposedly bar stock lasts longer. A lot of people say that MIM is pretty damn good though. I don't think people outside of regular competition really need anything above MIM.

I haven't checked out the pricing on the range officer, but the sr1911 is pretty affordable. I kind of like springfield's TRP, I read in The 1911 volume 2 by Sweeney that it's a version of the only 1911 to pass the FBI's testing (which bordered on the line of ridiculous standards). Link to some info of the FBI's testing Springfield Armory’s FBI (Professional Model) Pistol | Tactical Response Magazine

The wait time for a full custom can be several years. Instead I ordered an Ed Brown Executive Elite. Government, .45 ACP, blued, 10-8 rear sight, gold bead front sight.

I thought about adding a recessed crowned barrel and custom text on the barrel bushing.

What is the benefit of having a recessed crown? I have seen it on a couple of 1911s, but I'm not sure how it works.
 
I like the full sized Springfield Arms one I have but the Kimber ones are awful nice looking too:
Kimber1911AlienGrips-2.jpg

Kimber-Punisher02.jpg


Yes, I would love to have the Punisher Grip
 
Something like this

stainless_signature.jpg


Maybe nitrocarburizing the slide but no bullshit, just precision fit and only parts with a purpose.
 
That gives a pretty good visual. What kind of hammer would you put on it?

A spurred, skeletonized hammer goes hand-in-hand with an extended beaver tail; I think the conventional GI hammer is actually incompatible with an extended beaver tail without some "basement gunsmithing" (Dremel).

What is the benefit of having a recessed crown? I have seen it on a couple of 1911s, but I'm not sure how it works.

They're for making you come everytime you see your gun.

b4416fe5.jpg


A more serious explanation, from 1911Forums:

"From what I imagine if it is crowned correctly, all the gasses escape evenly straight and perpendicular to the path of the bullet. If it is uneven or has nicks the gases escape at the point first pushing the bullet at the last second. At least that is what I would imagine from what I know of how bullets work."
 
What is the benefit of having a recessed crown? I have seen it on a couple of 1911s, but I'm not sure how it works.

Crowning is supposed to protect the rifling of the barrel. It might, but I just like the way it looks. jlagman gave an example of a Stan Chen custom with a deep crowned barrel. I prefer the Wilson Combat recessed crowned barrel. It's not as extreme as the Stan Chen version.
 
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1911 Bear Gun

Caspian 6" Carbon-Steel Long Slide:
-Snakeskin Flat-Top
-Diamond front and rear serrations
-Recon radius cut
-Reverse plug cut
-Lowered and flared ejection port
snakeflat.jpg

diamondslantxserr.jpg


Slide Options

Caspian Recon Race Ready Carbon-Steel Receiver
-Beavertail cut
-Diamond plate front-strap
-Integral plunger tube
-Hand fit to slide
-Cut for ramped barrel

Race Ready Recon Receivers
Receiver Options

Barrel:
Scheumann 1911 Auto Ultimatch Bull Barrel
-Threaded
-.460 Rowland converted
-Integral Ramp
-EGW Five-Chamber Compensator
-Hand slide/frame fit
-Random high-quality link etc.

1911 AUTO ULTIMATCH BULL BARREL - Brownells
p_836200509_1.jpg

1911 AUTO FIVE CHAMBER COMPENSATOR - Brownells
p_296114100_1.jpg


Misc Upper Parts:
-Wilson Combat "Factory Plus" Extractor and Ejector
-EGW Oversized Firing Pin Stop hand fitted to 2/1000 inch radius
-Wilson Combat 18 lb. Recoil Spring and FLGR (Only because I have to)
-Titanium firing pin
-Trijicon three-dot night sights
1911 AUTO OVERSIZED FIRING PIN STOP - Brownells

Receiver Parts:
-Ed Brown Memory Groove Beavertail Grip Safety
-Wilson Combat Extended Mag. Release and Ambi High-Rise Thumb Safety
-Masen Extended Slide Stop
-Ed Brown Sear Spring/Lightweight Trigger/Misc. action and receiver parts
-Cylinder and Slide Drop-In Triggerpull Set (bobbed hammer, sear and disconnector)
-Whatever flat non-serrated mainspring housing with a laynard ring I could find with whatever decent mainspring housing parts I could buy in a set
1911 AUTO HIGH-RIDE AMBI THUMB SAFETY - Brownells
MASEN 1911 AUTO EXTENDED SLIDE STOP - Brownells
p_087867000_1.jpg

1911 AUTO MEMORY GROOVE BEAVERTAIL GRIP SAFETY - Brownells
!BjliSBg!2k~$(KGrHqQOKigEsmoLqg8UBLULfTdHy!~~_35.JPG


Misc.:
-Chip McCormick Shooting Star magazines
-Good tactical light to put on rail, pachmyr rubber grips

Finish: All gun parts and surfaces plated in Electroless Nickel/Boron Nitride composite

I don't think I forgot anything. This gun is obviously for if you get a mama grizz pissed at you, or need to really fuck some random large mammal/vehicle/god up
 
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BTW, if anyone here hasn't heard of it before, look into the EGW oversized square firing pin stop. It's a reproduction of John Moses Browning's original design which was altered because the U.S. Calvary found the gun too hard to **** with it. A FPS with a large radius was adopted instead, which makes ****ing easier but also effects the gun's timing. Many people report large improvements in felt recoil and muzzle flip from switching to the original design. You have to file a .002 inch radius onto it yourself or get a smith to do it, but IMO it's worth it--in fact it's mandatory if you want to shoot something hotter than .45 ACP through it.
 
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