Preference: DA, SA, DA/SA? Hammer or Striker?

[Lug's Spear]

Stinger isn't as good as velocitor from what I have read in .22 rifles. Not sure if it's the same with the pistol though, supposedly less accurate.

 

[Jory]

Stinger isn't as good as velocitor from what I have read in .22 rifles. Not sure if it's the same with the pistol though, supposedly less accurate.

MY 22 pistol puts fairly nice groups 6-8 inches higher than I was aiming. I think I just need to sight it in.

 

[crowded]

If you have or can obtain an airbrush it's pretty straightforward and easy (anything that comes out of a can is shit, airbrushing is the only way to go), the only prep you would need to do would be degreasing the surfaces thoroughly, you don't need to blast it or anything like that. When a gun is finished with ceramic coating professionally, it's parkerized/phosphated first because it takes the finish to a whole other level functionally and aesthetically.

It's understandable to want to have the most visible aspect of a gun handled professionally, but keep in mind the fact that you can get enough Gun-Kote to finish a 1911 for ~10 bucks, and getting a comparable finish applied professionally will cost over ten times that amount. I've done a good amount of this type of thing and can offer a couple of pointers WRT application for anyone who is interested.

how many casualties have you had due to trial and error?

So I checked my two 1911's. Neither fire in the 1/4 c0cked position. I always thought that was just a hitch in the mechanism's getty-up. Never thought there might be a use there. Since I don't carry loaded weapons around I never even use a safety. Most of 'em could have seized up for all I know. lol

 

[Gallachobar]

how many casualties have you had due to trial and error?

So I checked my two 1911's. Neither fire in the 1/4 c0cked position. I always thought that was just a hitch in the mechanism's getty-up. Never thought there might be a use there. Since I don't carry loaded weapons around I never even use a safety. Most of 'em could have seized up for all I know. lol

I wouldn't say I've had any "casualties", one of the handy things about GunKote is that you can rather easily remove it with thinner before it's been cured (it thins with MEK). I've never had to do much of that either, though.

I run about 25-30 psi through the airbrush and spray the surface from about 8-12 inches away such that when the spray reaches the surface you're coating it's very diffused, as it makes the coating very consistent and even. You apply it in three coats, letting it set for 8-10 minutes in between. The first coat should be light to the point of almost being a "dusting", the second a light-medium coat. Then with the third coat you lay down a decent amount to even it out and give it some thickness. There are a couple of additional measures that can be taken to further ensure it is applied correctly (if you're planning on trying this at some point I can elaborate), but IME as long as you do your surface prep well and stay within these parameters it's hard to fuck it up. Simply using an airbrush rather than trying to use a can makes a massive difference by itself.

 

[Gallachobar]

Here's what KG's satin black GunKote looks like over park, when done well (this isn't mine, btw)