What's Your Next Purchase? V5

My scope arrived today. Actually it arrived at the post office last week and I just worked 8 days straight and now I've finished my gopher gun:



It's a Ruger American Rimfire Compact in .22LR, wearing a Nikon Prostaff Rimfire Target EFR 3-9x40mm and a Harris bipod.
 
Oooo, right.. tax return season is coming. I MIGHT splurge and get a Leupold because why the fuck not?
 
Failure to eject, feed, stove pipe?

Slide recoil? Are you limp wristing the gun?

Also the SP2022 has a combat sight hold, the center of the front sight's dot is the point of impact at 25 yards. So if you don't aim with that in mind it will be low.
I'm sure slide recoil is not the correct term. The slide seems to take a long time to return after each shot. I pull the long ass spongy trigger until the gun discharges, recenter my aim, and the slide is still traveling forward for a fraction of a second, so I have to wait and recenter again before making a follow-up shot.

It may just be my imagination, but it's especially noticeable beside my GLOCK or CZ.

There are failures to eject with lightweight Frangible ammo, and feeding issues otherwise. Mostly failure to completely close the breech.

My hypothesis is weak springs and a heavy slide. Low recoil ammo can't push the slide all the way back, and the spring can't return the gun to battery consistently when it does.
 
I'm sure slide recoil is not the correct term. The slide seems to take a long time to return after each shot. I pull the long ass spongy trigger until the gun discharges, recenter my aim, and the slide is still traveling forward for a fraction of a second, so I have to wait and recenter again before making a follow-up shot.

It may just be my imagination, but it's especially noticeable beside my GLOCK or CZ.

There are failures to eject with lightweight Frangible ammo, and feeding issues otherwise. Mostly failure to completely close the breech.

My hypothesis is weak springs and a heavy slide. Low recoil ammo can't push the slide all the way back, and the spring can't return the gun to battery consistently when it does.

Well Sig definitely has a higher bore axis.

That's strange, if it is a weak spring it would definitely lock back.

Maybe something needs to be cleaned or polished or something. Have you brought it in to where you got it?
 
Well Sig definitely has a higher bore axis.

That's strange, if it is a weak spring it would definitely lock back.

Maybe something needs to be cleaned or polished or something. Have you brought it in to where you got it?
I've run it dripping wet and practically dry. There are range trips where it operates almost without issue, but to be honest I never put more than a couple magazines through it anymore. I have other 9s that I like better.
 
Recoil Magazine did a piece on the Desert Tech MDR and showed the rifle in white. It very much caught my fancy. That doesn't seem to be a factory option though.
 
Specifically this is the one I am looking at:
https://www.leupold.com/tactical/scopes/mark-4-lrt-riflescopes/mark-4-lrt-4-5-14x50mm-30mm-m1/

Or:
https://www.leupold.com/tactical/scopes/mark-4-lrt-riflescopes/mark-4-lrt-6-5-20x50mm-30mm-m1/

I don't think I "need" an illuminated scope so that's why I didn't like those versions


Try to find a scope with a first focal plane reticle. I looked at the leupold links but could not find whether that model is, or isn't.

Which leads me to believe it could very well be a 2nd focal plane scope.

The difference is the ease of use from the mildots.

Ex: with 2nd focal plane, the mildots look the same through the power settings but the distance in drop from 1 mildot to the next at the lower power setting will be more than the drop from 1 mil to the next at a higher power setting.

front-focal-plane-vs-second-focal-plane-rifle-scope-reticle.jpg



With a first focal plane scope the reticle size appears to grow with the power setting:
FFP_mag.jpg


The benefit is that the drop between mildots will remain the same regardless of the power setting.

So with a 2nd focal plane scope you have to consider the floating variable of (power setting) when calculating the mils on a shot.

Or pick a power and figure the drop/mils on that setting alone.
 
My only real question is magnification. Intend to use it to hunt moderate to big game here in the PNW (deer, MAYBE elk if I can get a tag, MAYBE some coyote stuff), Northeastern Nevada (elk, pronghorn, deer), and if I can hog in Idaho, and Groundhogs or something similar in Montana. So, for the Groundhogs and such I figure the 6x20 variable power would be great but am really hoping the 6 isn't too high for hunting in the woods of WA.

Fully intend for the rifle to be my go-to hunting rifle for a long while partially because the .300 WM, .300 Savage, and .243 we own are all my dad's and would want to use one of those.

I also though intend for the .308 AR-10 to be a, well, SHTF worst case scenario, zombies are coming choice too.

The Leupold mk4 is a great scope. Definately get one. I have them on a few rifles.
Yeah, the more I look at them the more I like them even when compared with the Viper PST from Vortex which is what I was initially looking at.

Try to find a scope with a first focal plane reticle. I looked at the leupold links but could not find whether that model is, or isn't.
Which leads me to believe it could very well be a 2nd focal plane scope.
The difference is the ease of use from the mildots.
Ex: with 2nd focal plane, the mildots look the same through the power settings but the distance in drop from 1 mildot to the next at the lower power setting will be more than the drop from 1 mil to the next at a higher power setting.
front-focal-plane-vs-second-focal-plane-rifle-scope-reticle.jpg

With a first focal plane scope the reticle size appears to grow with the power setting:
FFP_mag.jpg

The benefit is that the drop between mildots will remain the same regardless of the power setting.
So with a 2nd focal plane scope you have to consider the floating variable of (power setting) when calculating the mils on a shot.
Or pick a power and figure the drop/mils on that setting alone.
It looks like Optics Planet has a FFP version of it. Did not know that was the big difference with FFP stuff. Thanks

Also found this on the Leupold site:
Front Focal Plane Reticles – Mil and MOA based reticles are based on a specific subtension and require exact feature spacing to be accurate. If this type of reticle is used in a rear focal plane design, the scope must be used on a single, specific magnification (typically high power). Placing this type of reticle in a front focal plane design allows the operator to use the scope on any magnification while retaining the exact spacing of the reticle features.
https://www.leupold.com/resources/faqs/#WhatIsTheDifferenceBetweenAFrontFocal

Does this mean I should get a mil dot version? Or is the TMR still usable?
 
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https://www.leupold.com/resources/faqs/#WhatIsTheDifferenceBetweenAFrontFocal

Does this mean I should get a mil dot version? Or is the TMR still usable?

What's the TMR?

Nevermind, I see.

Both are just a reference mark. The real difference is between 2nd and first focal planes.

If you're shooting at something 100 yards, then 300, then 275, then 600, then 100, etc...

The first focal plane is a little easier to use because Mils are mils are dots are dashes across the power spectrum.

One less variable to deal with.
 
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What's the TMR?

Nevermind, I see.

Both are just a reference mark. The real difference is between 2nd and first focal planes.

If you're shooting at something 100 yards, then 300, then 275, then 600, then 100, etc...

The first focal plane is a little easier to use because Mils are mils are dots are dashes across the power spectrum.

One less variable to deal with.
Thanks.

Time to do some more research. If the MK4 is a FFP scope, I think I have my choice.
 
if you can look through one, its easy to tell. Crank the power down, if the reticles gets small, it's FFP.

If you can't and FFP is what you're after, Make Leupold confirm it too.

I say that only because its too much money to pay if you're looking for a feature it ends up not having.

Leave nothing to chance.

Good luck either way.
 
Or just be a ballin' ass, cheating motherfucker and pick up a Burris Eliminator. :D
 
I have zeiss, Leupold and vortex, all of them have their pros and cons.

For hunting out west, I like w lot of magnification because I often take shots at 200+ yards, it's not like deer hunting in Michigan where 40yds is a long shot.

The higher magnification just lets me place better shots and lime them right through trees/brush/branches/rocks whatever to get it right where I want it rather than just "hoping" it dosent hit a branch and fragment.

For me, the thing I really like about vortex is they don't seem to wash out as much in high light/flare at higher magnification and they have that awesome 100% guarantee...you can drop it off the side of a mountain and they will give you a new one. Leupolds tend to sort of yellow out over time in my experience but Leupold refurbishes them for a very reasonable price.

Zeiss and Leica are great.....but that $$$....
 
Hopefully I can find a place (maybe Caelas) where I could compare identical in specs (ie magnification and shit) between a Vortex and Leupold.
 


Something I saw on one of the other forums I post on. It seems like it would be cool to try.
 
My scope arrived today. Actually it arrived at the post office last week and I just worked 8 days straight and now I've finished my gopher gun:



It's a Ruger American Rimfire Compact in .22LR, wearing a Nikon Prostaff Rimfire Target EFR 3-9x40mm and a Harris bipod.

I havnt handled the American rim fire. Do you think there's a way to take that piece off the back of the stock and design a secure way to store some stuff??? Like...I don't know, 20 extra rounds, a small nic lighter or ferro rod and maybe some wet fire??? Seems like if you could use that empty space in the stock you could make a sweet survival type gun.
 
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