P
Pugilistic
Guest
With Surfing lol. Sorry for the clickbait title but I just really wanted to talk about how awesome surfing is. I never thought I'd be this into surfing because growing up I always thought it was a thing for hippy stoner white guys. But holy shit I feel alive when I catch a wave and it's like being one with the ocean.
I first went last year when I went on a trip to HK with some friends and the other guys really wanted to surf. I was just going to chill on the beach because I don't know anything about surfing but they pushed me because it was cheap to rent a board there. They taught me the very basics and I caught a couple waves (while lying on the board) which was cool. I started to get why people were into it.
Then I didn't try it again for awhile because renting shit in my country is more expensive. Then I went to Waikiki last month where I became addicted to it. I didn't even take a lesson. I just rented a board, went out, and tried to figure it out by watching other people. I was out in the water for hours not giving a shit that I was getting sunburned.
Despite the weather becoming colder and the relatively expensive rental fees (not to mention the 3 hour drive to the nearest surf break from my home) I went a couple days ago and it was so worth it. Nowhere near as good as Waikiki of course but still awesome. There were more people than I expected which made catching waves harder but I felt so much appreciation and encouragement. I just wanted to cheer people on whenever I saw somebody else catch a wave. When I see a chick catch a wave it looks so awesome I feel like I develop a crush every time I see one.
Surfing is love. I feel so much gratitude for my friends for introducing me to it and to Hawaiians for giving this gift to the rest of the world.
I'm thinking of traveling to Bali before the year is over just so I can visit my friend and surf with him (The same guy who introduced me to it in the first place).
Any surfers here?
I first went last year when I went on a trip to HK with some friends and the other guys really wanted to surf. I was just going to chill on the beach because I don't know anything about surfing but they pushed me because it was cheap to rent a board there. They taught me the very basics and I caught a couple waves (while lying on the board) which was cool. I started to get why people were into it.
Then I didn't try it again for awhile because renting shit in my country is more expensive. Then I went to Waikiki last month where I became addicted to it. I didn't even take a lesson. I just rented a board, went out, and tried to figure it out by watching other people. I was out in the water for hours not giving a shit that I was getting sunburned.
Despite the weather becoming colder and the relatively expensive rental fees (not to mention the 3 hour drive to the nearest surf break from my home) I went a couple days ago and it was so worth it. Nowhere near as good as Waikiki of course but still awesome. There were more people than I expected which made catching waves harder but I felt so much appreciation and encouragement. I just wanted to cheer people on whenever I saw somebody else catch a wave. When I see a chick catch a wave it looks so awesome I feel like I develop a crush every time I see one.
Surfing is love. I feel so much gratitude for my friends for introducing me to it and to Hawaiians for giving this gift to the rest of the world.
I'm thinking of traveling to Bali before the year is over just so I can visit my friend and surf with him (The same guy who introduced me to it in the first place).
Any surfers here?
