Help me trick out a Ruger Precision Rifle

[GearSolidMetal]

I'd like to thank @Chesten_Hesten for the suggestion to pick up a RPR in my other thread, asking for recommendation for a 7.62 to buy in the near future.

I was going back and forth about if I should pick up a RPR or a classic M1A, and I while I checked out the prices for the M1A I was interested in ($1600), I hadn't checked out the prices for the RPR, which I thought the stock price would be $1400, imagine my surprise when I see they're actually $1100. My guess for the $300 drop in price is because of the new 'deluxe' version of the RPR, with added features. While the muzzle break and aluminum bolt sound attractive for the price of $1400, I'd rather get the stock $1100 version and have the $300 go to accessories.

So, I'm looking for a few different types of accessories... muzzle break, main optics, and off-center iron sights, as well as any other accessory any other poster here with experience in long-range target shooting could recommend. But I'd say my max is $2200, so a total of $900 in accessories, that's my budget.

Oh, and would off-center iron sights be realistic on this set up, or would a new rail be required?

 

[Chesten_Hesten]

Get a new fore-end tube. seems the stock ones are flexy and can effect consistency in certain situations.

Dump the rest on ammo and the best scope you can afford.

I've got one of these:

Weaver Tactical 4-20X50 30mm SF Matte Mil Dot Riflescope.


Sometimes the prices are good when you shop around. But its one of the least expensive, "quality" first focal plane mildot scopes out there.

Or you could forgo the mildots and just dial to your zeros like everyone used too.

The older model of these scopes were nice:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/95...6-24x-50mm-side-focus-fine-plex-reticle-matte

Really good optics, and the WIDE field of view, (which is great when you're cranked up trying to find small stuff.

The finne plex is my favorite reticle.

Only downside to the newer models it the dial stops at 8.5 MOA, so after a full rotation, you have to account for the halves. I only encounter it when shooting over 150 yards with a 22LR or over 600 yards with a centerfire.


Anyway, whatever scope you look at, be sure to crank the power up and look through it to see what happens to the field of view. Too many scopes nowadays narrow the field of view on high power, and that's not cool.

 

[Protectandserve]

^I agree with Hesten. If you're set.on a muzzle brake drop some dough on one but quality optics, range time and ammo will give you the best pay off.

Not sure why offset irons would be out on a bolt gun, don't really see the need. Off set irons or off set reflex sights are really only for up close work that you may need in competition settings or if you're in combat, with a semi auto.

Also look into a long range shooting class if you really want to up you're game, there are plenty of reputable places out there that will teach you a shitload, but they are pricey.

 

[RerouteToRemain]

http://precisionarmament.com/product/m4-72-tactical-compensator/

http://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/2015/04/jeremy-s/ar-15-muzzle-brake-shootout-2/

You could easily put irons on. Not sure why you would want them on a bolt gun like that but hey its your rifle.

 

[Gregolian]

Look into Vortex. Can get glass almost on part with Leupold for at least 75% of the price of Leupold. Like this one I am looking at:
http://www.opticsplanet.com/vortex-riflescopes-vpr-m-06fp.html

It unfortunately is not an FFP scope but it is 6.5-20 power with a 50 mm objective on it.

Also, it might be just me but I'm not sure how a canted iron sights would work with the bolt for a bolt gun.

If it was a more standard built bolt gun I would suggest finding a gunsmith to get a glass bed job done.

 

[Cubo de Sangre]

@GearSolidMetal, can you get a suppressor in Kansas?

 

[jlagman]

A press, dies and components; those are pretty much a prerequisite for long range precision and largely why it didn't appeal to me when I briefly dabbled in it a couple of years ago.

 

[RerouteToRemain]

A press, dies and components; those are pretty much a prerequisite for long range precision and largely why it didn't appeal to me when I briefly dabbled in it a couple of years ago.

This would be more than enough for most people.

 

[jlagman]

This would be more than enough for most people.

Perhaps at first, but eventually, "rolling your own" seems to become a big reason why people continue with long range precision shooting. IMO, it attracts the most dedicated of the tinkerers.

 

[RerouteToRemain]

Perhaps at first, but eventually, "rolling your own" seems to become a big reason why people continue with long range precision shooting. IMO, it attracts the most dedicated of the tinkerers.

For sure. From what I've read it can actually be quite daunting to a great consistent load for a particular rifle. Trying different powders, different amounts of powder, different bullets, different bullet weights, different bullet seating, primers, brass, etc. I've only ever done handgun and shotgun reloads at a friend's house.

 

[GearSolidMetal]

A press, dies and components; those are pretty much a prerequisite for long range precision and largely why it didn't appeal to me when I briefly dabbled in it a couple of years ago.

Perhaps at first, but eventually, "rolling your own" seems to become a big reason why people continue with long range precision shooting. IMO, it attracts the most dedicated of the tinkerers.

I may get into reloading sometime in the future.

How much does that cut down the cost per round? Half?

 

[GearSolidMetal]

You could easily put irons on. Not sure why you would want them on a bolt gun like that but hey its your rifle.

Because I'm not sure how optics that advertise to be 'shock-proof' can still be accurate to long ranges after... say... being dropped from 4 feet onto the ground, or worse.

Always want to have irons as a 100% reliable backup, or for short-distance targets.

 

[RerouteToRemain]

I may get into reloading sometime in the future.

How much does that cut down the cost per round? Half?

You can find 175gr and 168 gr federal gold medal match on sale for around $1.10-1.30 a round.


From what I've read people reload match loads for around $.60 - .90 a round(that takes into account multiple reloads per case).

Then you have account for the initial cost of reloading materials. Also if you are talking about making "match" ammo it will take you a pretty good amount of time to do it.

Also the initial cost/time of discovering a load that works great in your rifle.

Plinking ammo(brass) you can find for .45-.55 a round on sale. I'm not sure on plinking reloads.


This just what I've researched.


@Chesten_Hesten

Would probably know better than anyone.

 

[ironwolf]

Reloading is expensive to start out but it can be cool.

I never Got into it as a hobby, for me it's always been more of a chore but my dad has lots of loss he's made over the years for certain rifles so he's already got that figured out, I don't hate it but sometimes it sucks to know you need to do the work.

Right now we're playing with 454casull. Trying to make a nice hunting load, we already have a ton of brass.

 

[Chesten_Hesten]

Hey instead of farting with a muzzle brake, what if you went with one of the other calibers?

6.5 creedmoor is what all the action sniper goons are competing with these days.

Less recoil, cut thru the wind mo betta.

http://ammoseek.com/ammo/6.5mm-creedmoor

Read all about it here:

http://www.accurateshooter.com/tactical/6-5-creedmoor-for-tactical-competition/


or shoot lighter bullets in the 308. 155grn MatchKing palma.
https://www.sierrabullets.com/store/product.cfm/sn/2156/308-dia-155-gr-HPBT-PALMA-MatchKing

Ballistics on those are good.

You'll be able to push them harder than the bigger stuff with the case capacity you have.


You can buy some here

http://www.snipercentral.com/product/hsm-308-win-155gr-hpbt-palma-match-vld-box-20/

Suppressor is better than muzzle brake.

 

[RerouteToRemain]

Hey instead of farting with a muzzle brake, what if you went with one of the other calibers?

6.5 creedmoor is what all the action sniper goons are competing with these days.

Less recoil, cut thru the wind mo betta.

http://ammoseek.com/ammo/6.5mm-creedmoor

Read all about it here:

http://www.accurateshooter.com/tactical/6-5-creedmoor-for-tactical-competition/


or shoot lighter bullets in the 308. 155grn MatchKing palma.
https://www.sierrabullets.com/store/product.cfm/sn/2156/308-dia-155-gr-HPBT-PALMA-MatchKing

Ballistics on those are good.

You'll be able to push them harder than the bigger stuff with the case capacity you have.


You can buy some here

http://www.snipercentral.com/product/hsm-308-win-155gr-hpbt-palma-match-vld-box-20/

Suppressor is better than muzzle brake.

What are your thoughts on the Hornady 178gr superformance. .530 bc 2775fps

 

[Chesten_Hesten]

What are your thoughts on the Hornady 178gr superformance. .530 bc 2775fps

if it shots like a mofo in your rifle, stand by it.

Checking thru ballistics on an array of .30cal bullets I noticed, (on the calculators) that the same weight bullet in a 308, shot from a 3006 will get you round about 250-300fps more velocity, (without going bonkers on the pressure) and another 250-300fps on top of that shot from a 300 Win Mag. From 3000fps on the .30cal match bullets start a noticeable increase in BC and smack down.

In the above I'm talking 175-180grn range.


However,

Working the numbers on lighter .30cal bullets I noticed. You can get a 125grn .30cal to shoot 3100fps from a 308. (real world confirmed as well)
Using a Nosler ballistic tip, you end up with a drop chart right inline with a 77grn 243 out to 500 yards. But with a noticeable increase in beat down on the target due to the difference in projectile weight and it's already making a bigger hole going in, and it's easier on the throat of the barrel. And it doesn't even kick much more than that 243.


With the above scenario in mind, 3150fps can be had from a 3006, with a 150grn bullet, giving even better numbers and a relatively close trajectory. If I remember correct its about 200-300ft lbs more hit. 300 Win mag you can get like 3300fps. With something like the palma bullet the BC starts to rise with the velocity.


Anyway my ultimate point here was after looking at the numbers from several which ways, the 150grn range 30cal gives some really good perfomrance numbers (drop, bc, & ft lbs knockdown) with a little added velocity.

So you can either go heavy and slower or lighter and faster to get to relatively the same place.


Even with all the numbers n shit, real world is sometimes different.

EX: I had a 6.5X284 with 142grn matchking
.626 @ 2850 fps and above

My buddy was shooting his 308 with Lapua 150-whatever they were maybe 152grn match bullets. I think it had a .520BC or something.

Both of us shooting the same target from 600 yards away.

We ended up with the same windage.

I believe the determining factor was the mirage. In spite of the wind, it moved the image the same amount for both of us, and evened out our adjustments.

Other days it wasn't like that, but after my 6.5s throat was gone after 1500rnds, I decided to go 3006, as an all arounder.

I have about 500 rnds of 175grn match ammo, which shoots great, but I also have 200 rnds of 150grn loads which drops less out to 600 yards, and only has 90ft lbs less knock down than the 175grn.

Kicks less too.



All sorts of ways to skin the cat.

 

[GearSolidMetal]

Look into Vortex. Can get glass almost on part with Leupold for at least 75% of the price of Leupold. Like this one I am looking at:
http://www.opticsplanet.com/vortex-riflescopes-vpr-m-06fp.html

It unfortunately is not an FFP scope but it is 6.5-20 power with a 50 mm objective on it.

Also, it might be just me but I'm not sure how a canted iron sights would work with the bolt for a bolt gun.

If it was a more standard built bolt gun I would suggest finding a gunsmith to get a glass bed job done.

Thanks for the optics suggestion, and that's around my pricepoint. This'll be high on my list of scopes I'll probably pick up.

Also, what's a 'glass bed job?'

 

[Chesten_Hesten]

2nd focal plane is fine too. All you gotta do, (when mapping hold over dots to distances) is reference the same power setting on the scope. Usually its a higher power.

On many 2nd focal plane scopes the mils are correct at 10X. So from one dot to the next its a mil. At 15X the distance between the dots will be less than 1 mil.

But if you make a point to shoot at way out shit at 15X then account for all your dots at that power and it's same as same.

However you can keep it as simple as possible the better.

If you get that Ruger, you won't have to worry about bedding

 

[Gregolian]

Thanks for the optics suggestion, and that's around my pricepoint. This'll be high on my list of scopes I'll probably pick up.

Also, what's a 'glass bed job?'

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rifle_bedding

http://riflestocks.tripod.com/bedding.html

My understanding is free float is great for things like ARs but with a bolt gun the bedding, ie what the barrel sits in, will aid in the accuracy.