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Help me trick out a Ruger Precision Rifle

I have a put together AR with a 1:7 twist rate in an M4 profile barrel from I believe Rainier Arms.

A mix of irons and Vortex Strikefire 3x prism scope and standard either Wolf Gold or American Eagle.

The irons are a pair of offsets I got from Palmetto State


Maybe to narrow down the issue:

Try one of these big mushy bags for a rest to deaden the gun moving.
060-FMBB30.jpg


Try a cheap birdcage muzzle break, (to help keep the rifle from being flighty under shot break)

Maybe a rock river 2 stage trigger, (look for specials on them)

try to find a known good scope to test.

Start with 50 yard groups.

If 3 shots won't touch at 50, something is amiss somewhere.

Give yourself time to reset everything in the bag after each shot.

Short light rifles need to be held I find.
 
Maybe to narrow down the issue:

Try one of these big mushy bags for a rest to deaden the gun moving.
060-FMBB30.jpg


Try a cheap birdcage muzzle break, (to help keep the rifle from being flighty under shot break)

Maybe a rock river 2 stage trigger, (look for specials on them)

try to find a known good scope to test.

Start with 50 yard groups.

If 3 shots won't touch at 50, something is amiss somewhere.

Give yourself time to reset everything in the bag after each shot.

Short light rifles need to be held I find.
I should have added to the goofy-ness is from a bench rest at my local range that has a steel rest you can pile sand bags on and I went with the standard A2 Birdcage flash hider on the front. I have a Caldwell bipod I tried out but it didn't seem to go any better.

It's hitting paper at 50 yards but I can't even get the shit within a single target on one of those 5 target bulls-eyes you can buy (has the big one in the center with four smaller ones at each corner).

I'll look for one of those RRA specials on a trigger (I have a Geissele one [just below the SSA] but that's for my AR-10).

Ggggrrrrrr.

Thanks for the suggestions though.
 
I should have added to the goofy-ness is from a bench rest at my local range that has a steel rest you can pile sand bags on and I went with the standard A2 Birdcage flash hider on the front. I have a Caldwell bipod I tried out but it didn't seem to go any better.

It's hitting paper at 50 yards but I can't even get the shit within a single target on one of those 5 target bulls-eyes you can buy (has the big one in the center with four smaller ones at each corner).

I'll look for one of those RRA specials on a trigger (I have a Geissele one [just below the SSA] but that's for my AR-10).

Ggggrrrrrr.

Thanks for the suggestions though.

It almost sounds like there is something wrong. You are shooting 4+ inch groups at 50 yards with a 3x scope?

If you are badly jerking the trigger that is a big problem. Try dry fire practicing. Steady squeeze. Try to learn where it breaks. On my AR10 the milspec trigger is awful but it has a somewhat consistent break. I can take up almost all of the gritty creep and pause before I take my shot with it. Take your time between shots. Dry fire practice and go back out and try shooting at 50 again.

If you know someone that is a good shooter with an AR maybe ask them to try it out?
 
It almost sounds like there is something wrong. You are shooting 4+ inch groups at 50 yards with a 3x scope?

If you are badly jerking the trigger that is a big problem. Try dry fire practicing. Steady squeeze. Try to learn where it breaks. On my AR10 the milspec trigger is awful but it has a somewhat consistent break. I can take up almost all of the gritty creep and pause before I take my shot with it. Take your time between shots. Dry fire practice and go back out and try shooting at 50 again.

If you know someone that is a good shooter with an AR maybe ask them to try it out?
My AR-15 milspec literally has NO take up but the break feels heavy as shit. I'm perfectly ok with no take up/slack as I grew up shooting a .243 Winchester Model 70 and those have a clean crisp break to them with no take up. The AR-15 of mine feels like there is no take up and the actual pull is heavy.

I'm supposed to go shooting this weekend with some friends, one of which is former Army Infantry with a tour in Afghanistan and two in Iraq so I'll see what he can do from 50 with it to see if it's me or the gun.

I know he shot it once at the range and he said the trigger felt far stiffer than it should but we couldn't get a good look at our targets as it's a county run range that doesn't let people police their own targets at the rifle range.

If it turns out to be the trigger (I seriously doubt my Vortex Spitfire is off THAT badly even with me probably bumbling the adjustments a bit) I may just bite the bullet and put that Geisselle I bought last Black Friday for my AR-10 into it.
 
My AR-15 milspec literally has NO take up but the break feels heavy as shit. I'm perfectly ok with no take up/slack as I grew up shooting a .243 Winchester Model 70 and those have a clean crisp break to them with no take up. The AR-15 of mine feels like there is no take up and the actual pull is heavy.

I'm supposed to go shooting this weekend with some friends, one of which is former Army Infantry with a tour in Afghanistan and two in Iraq so I'll see what he can do from 50 with it to see if it's me or the gun.

I know he shot it once at the range and he said the trigger felt far stiffer than it should but we couldn't get a good look at our targets as it's a county run range that doesn't let people police their own targets at the rifle range.

If it turns out to be the trigger (I seriously doubt my Vortex Spitfire is off THAT badly even with me probably bumbling the adjustments a bit) I may just bite the bullet and put that Geisselle I bought last Black Friday for my AR-10 into it.


I'd say just throw it in now. You can always take it back out and replace.
 
I'd say just throw it in now. You can always take it back out and replace.
True.

And if I like it I can always get another for the AR-10 or a drop in 2 stage that I like.

I know there are vids online of how to do it but I can't remember... to just replace the trigger do I need to remove the VG and shit too or can I remove just the trigger and go?
 
It's hitting paper at 50 yards but I can't even get the shit within a single target on one of those 5 target bulls-eyes you can buy (has the big one in the center with four smaller ones at each corner).

I'll look for one of those RRA specials on a trigger (I have a Geissele one [just below the SSA] but that's for my AR-10).

Ggggrrrrrr.

Gun may or may not shoot, but there should be a way to deduce within a degree of certainty what's up.

So, the 50 yard stuff is just in case you trigger control is bad.

I find those short light carbines bump around, shift, slip and don't stay put, hence burying it in deep sandbags. Bipods are bounce prone, so for this test I'd avoid them.

Scope? If the scope is bad, try irons, and just try to focus on repeating the sight picture each time.

If they're true metal irons try torching them with a lighter to coat them in nice flat non-glare soot. Helps see them sometimes.

the muzzle break idea is just to help take some of the bounce out of the rifle.


But I'm curious, all the rest of your rifles shoot fine? If so look closer at this particular rifle?

Your variables:
Trigger - Barrel - Sights.

Shootability - ammo.

If you don't want to swap the shit trigger for your geissele trigger maybe if you know someone who has a good triggered lower, just swap out at the range?

If you have a known good rifle you can try the suspect scope on it. It shoots good there, eliminate that possibility.

I realize its a lot of rigamarole but ultimately every question should be answered.
 
Gun may or may not shoot, but there should be a way to deduce within a degree of certainty what's up.

So, the 50 yard stuff is just in case you trigger control is bad.

I find those short light carbines bump around, shift, slip and don't stay put, hence burying it in deep sandbags. Bipods are bounce prone, so for this test I'd avoid them.

Scope? If the scope is bad, try irons, and just try to focus on repeating the sight picture each time.

If they're true metal irons try torching them with a lighter to coat them in nice flat non-glare soot. Helps see them sometimes.

the muzzle break idea is just to help take some of the bounce out of the rifle.


But I'm curious, all the rest of your rifles shoot fine? If so look closer at this particular rifle?

Your variables:
Trigger - Barrel - Sights.

Shootability - ammo.

If you don't want to swap the shit trigger for your geissele trigger maybe if you know someone who has a good triggered lower, just swap out at the range?

If you have a known good rifle you can try the suspect scope on it. It shoots good there, eliminate that possibility.

I realize its a lot of rigamarole but ultimately every question should be answered.
I know it's a lot of stuff to look into but I figured this would not be an easy fix. My plan right now is to swap out the trigger (I can always get another Geissele for my AR-10 project. Hell, I was intent on getting the Tactical Shit Bangswitch drop in trigger for this AR-15 and my lightweight SHTF AR-15 I plan to build anyways so it was in the cards) and see what happens at that point.
 
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