Keyboard Jockey Attempts Two AR-15 Builds

First Blood

Leave the skull white but dirty it up, add a dark red/maroon/crimson head band(also going down a magazine). Get the rest od green with light black wash. Possibly add a couple black tiger stripes or imperfect stripes( with minor splattering) looking like dripping blood(color more like drying blood that has like dirt/grime on mixed in)


Terminator

Get all the paint stripped to a polished aluminium. Black wash the bare aluminum. Think battle worn bare aluminum, mostly high polish with cracks/crevasses and whatnot black washed. Bright vibrant red eyes (not the entire eye socket). Clear hard coat over all of it.

White Walker or Night King

White with blue/frozen hue, mild blackwash. Blue eyes

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Just get the lower painted and leave the skull white.

Go with more of a slight yellow/brown hue to the white with a very mild blackwash and do the entire.

Like this but all over

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Take it a step further and Fossilize it.

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Holy shit dude! You've got some imagination. :)

I like the glossy white & black scheme. It's just a matter of which parts to make which color. When it's time to do the LH side-charger then I might get that creative.
 
Holy shit dude! You've got some imagination. :)

I like the glossy white & black scheme. It's just a matter of which parts to make which color. When it's time to do the LH side-charger then I might get that creative.


Yeah lol was just trying to think of things I've never seen. Your list sounded good for the black/white.


How about a bloody spinal column pmag? Like this but add blood, slightly more realistic spine.

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Yeah lol was just trying to think of things I've never seen. Your list sounded good for the black/white.


How about a bloody spinal column pmag? Like this but add blood, slightly more realistic spine.

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Nice. This is 6.8spc so no pmags though.
 
Can't argue. Fyi, the one I posted is by Rare Breed, not Sharps.

So I'm still fucking agonizing of the color scheme. This is the gun though.


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In person it kinda almost doesn't need any cerakoting because I think I've been looking at it too long so it seems right. lol In the picture the white looks much more lonely. Here's my current line of thinking.

White:
  • Upper receiver
  • Handguard
  • Release lever on the stock
  • Magazine (with red dripping down like blood)
  • Safety lever screws
  • Charging handle stem (not sure what it's called, but not the actual handles)
Black (to get a more consistent matching color):
  • Mag release (grind off texture)
  • Safety levers
  • Bolt catch (grind off texture)
  • Magazine (with red dripping down like blood)
  • Rails that attach to the handguard (not pictured)
  • Forward assist (not pictured)

I really wanted to use the LH side-charging upper but that doesn't play well with the ARMS handguard or the rear sight. Since those go with together with the front sight it's a bit of a package deal. This upper is fine. Just not my first choice. Also having to shit-can the bayonet since it doesn't play well with this muzzle device or my backup plan (a Lantac Dragon). It fit over the linear compensator that I liked at first, but this octocomp looks pretty tough and it's adjustable so I should be able to tune it well enough. And let's face it, a bayonet offers only so much use or appeal. I've thought about doing more of the stock white (either the buffer tube part or the bottom part) but I'm just not picturing it.

On a positive note, that ARMS handguard with the rail going over the upper rail (and flush-fitting with the rear sight) is goddamn perfect for The Jack lower. :cool:


I think I'll do the sliding part of the stock in white and the release lever in black. I'm also thinking that anything black needs cerakoted for uniformity except for the BCG, Barrel, grip. Not sure if it makes any sense to do the ACOG. Either way, I'm feeling pretty satisfied with this plan now.
 
I think I'll do the sliding part of the stock in white and the release lever in black. I'm also thinking that anything black needs cerakoted for uniformity except for the BCG, Barrel, grip. Not sure if it makes any sense to do the ACOG. Either way, I'm feeling pretty satisfied with this plan now.

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Thinking I need to match the belt-fed upper with a different lower. The pins are just too damn tight. I don't mind it taking a little bit of effort, but not so much that I need to pound them out with something.

Instead of the BFSIII trigger I'm thinking of using the Echo with it instead. This is because the Echo design eliminates the possibility of hammer follow and they've (Fostech) redesigned the piece that required a modified bolt carrier. Now all you need is a full-auto carrier (which I'm pretty sure the upper has because other dudes have matched them with an Echo).
 
Thinking I need to match the belt-fed upper with a different lower. The pins are just too damn tight. I don't mind it taking a little bit of effort, but not so much that I need to pound them out with something.

Instead of the BFSIII trigger I'm thinking of using the Echo with it instead. This is because the Echo design eliminates the possibility of hammer follow and they've (Fostech) redesigned the piece that required a modified bolt carrier. Now all you need is a full-auto carrier (which I'm pretty sure the upper has because other dudes have matched them with an Echo).

I messed around with changing out the pins to see if that would make a difference. It didn't. The rear pin needs hammered in/out. It's not so easy to just slap it on lowers to check fit because it hits on the bolt catch. With the Ares upper it needs a special catch. All things considered, I might just deal with the pin. Fuck it. Don't know yet then what to do with the Echo trigger. Might still swap it out with the BFSIII.

I did decide to pull the rear iron sight. With the eye relief I felt the Elcan was sitting a little too far forward. Conveniently enough, the scope has a tunnel running beneath the lenses that lines up with the front sight so there's really not much need for the rear. I like it better now.

Also added the extended bolt catch. I prefer to release the bolt that way rather than with the charging handle.

Leaning towards swapping out the standard birdcage with a Lantac Dragon.
 
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I messed around with changing out the pins to see if that would make a difference. It didn't. The rear pin needs hammered in/out. It's not so easy to just slap it on lowers to check fit because it hits on the bolt catch. With the Ares upper it needs a special catch. All things considered, I might just deal with the pin. Fuck it. Don't know yet then what to do with the Echo trigger. Might still swap it out with the BFSIII.

I did decide to pull the rear iron sight. With the eye relief I felt the Elcan was sitting a little too far forward. Conveniently enough, the scope has a tunnel running beneath the lenses that lines up with the front sight so there's really not much need for the rear. I like it better now.

Also added the extended bolt catch. I prefer to release the bolt that way rather than with the charging handle.

Leaning towards swapping out the standard birdcage with a Lantac Dragon.

Sand the pin down a bit, if you fuck it up standard ones are like $5.

Or maybe this might work

http://www.battlearmsdevelopment.com/bad-qrrtp

If you want max recoil reduction

https://precisionarmament.com/product/m4-72-tactical-compensator/

http://www.larue.com/sjc-titan-compensator-223


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Sand the pin down a bit, if you fuck it up standard ones are like $5.

Or maybe this might work

http://www.battlearmsdevelopment.com/bad-qrrtp

If you want max recoil reduction

https://precisionarmament.com/product/m4-72-tactical-compensator/

http://www.larue.com/sjc-titan-compensator-223


brakes-chart-all-data.jpg

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Thanks. I'll do some sanding on the pin and see where that gets me. Just as soon as I get motivated. Not only is it a turn off the way that Battle Arms pin sticks out, it's so tight I'd probably still need to pound on it.

Funny you posted this chart because after looking around at the cost of the Lantacs it occurred to me that I had one of the Precision Armament M4-72's in the parts box. Hopefully it's as good with muzzle rise as the Dragon. Definitely gonna be a big step up over the birdcage either way.
 
@Cubo de Sangre

I know at one point you were but not sure if you're still interested but the high polished stainless battle comp 1.5 and 2.0 are on sale big time. 40% off (along with everything else on the site) and proceeds going to Texas flood.

TEXAS2017 coupon code

http://www.griffonindustries.com/product_p/bce-ps-01.htm

A griffon marked Radian raptor SD is also at a very good price.
 



Finished my 14.5 midlength build (first build)

14.5 inch faxon Gunner barrel
Strike industries J comp
SLR 13.7 helix handguard
DS arms upper
2a aranment titanium gas block
Fail zero NIB bolt carrier group
Aero gen 2 lower
POF 3.5 lb flat blade trigger
Daniel defense pistol grip
Jp buffer spring
Carbine buffer
Kns anti rotation pins
Strike industries enhanced lower parts kit
Magpul bad lever
Fortis hammer charging handle
MFT minimalist stock
Burris 5x prism scope

Pretty happy with it. I got it to shoot sub moa the other day with IMI 69 grain razor core. Started building a pistol build with some spares and birthday gifts. All it needs is a barrel, gas block, muzzle device and handguard now.
 
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This last picture is probably somewhat close to being most indicative of the color. It is so difficult to capture the actual color. After some pics I took I just lol'd, it's like well this looks gold, this looks like patriot brown, this looks like some weird fde, low light it looks black with bronze hue, etc. Idk I guess that's what happens with a semi dark color with a somewhat bright bronze flake in it. Maybe when it's done I'll borrow a real camera and try get some good shots.

Also for some reason the flash is making it look like the inside of the handguard is raw, it's not. I actually looked at the pics and said wtf, quickly went and grabbed it to check. Like in the last picture, at the end you can clearly see it is sprayed but as you go down the rail it looks increasingly raw. Strange, I'm assuming it's just a lighter coat inside or something and it's reflecting in a weird way. I don't notice it with my eye.

Here is a spot towards the beginning of the rail that looked raw in the above pics

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Where do you get those parts separate? Radian doesn't seem to offer them separately on the website.

I've always liked that handguard and wanted one.

Also nice screen name, I'm a big inflames fan.
 
Where do you get those parts separate? Radian doesn't seem to offer them separately on the website.

I've always liked that handguard and wanted one.

Also nice screen name, I'm a big inflames fan.

From the owner.

They are working on releasing a stripped upper/handguard
 
@modena1983

I'll elaborate more on how.

Before switching to radian, axts had some extra lowers they needed to unload before the switch. They didn't sell the lowers separately at the time but this was an exception. They sold 10 lowers to blown deadline. I purchased from them.

I talked to the owner of radian and was able to get the stripped upper handguard as a special purchase because I got one of those lowers. However they wouldn't give me their proprietary barrel nut & wrench. I had to send all the upper parts to them to get installed.
 
I like those hand guards and have been looking at various ones for my pistol.

So far looking at geissele mk8 and KRG Mrex. Leaning toward the 11 inch mrex since I will be running a 10.3 inch ballistic advantage ba hanson barrel.
 
I like those hand guards and have been looking at various ones for my pistol.

So far looking at geissele mk8 and KRG Mrex. Leaning toward the 11 inch mrex since I will be running a 10.3 inch ballistic advantage ba hanson barrel.

What muzzle device you plan on using?

I'm a fan of the MK8.

SLR has a lot of cool options imo.

Knights Armament urx 4 mlok looks somewhat similar as well.
 
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