PC Sherdog PC Build/Buy Thread, v6: My Power Supply Burned Down My House

Well I was going to go with a 120 GB SSD as I do have the HDD from the old PC, so I could just drop the SSD all together and go with an R3. My only issue with that is the HDD is a bit older, but it still works fine. Thanks for the idea.
Looked it over, and yeah, I like Jefferz's idea. Down in this budget range I think a viable amount of gaming storage in an SSD (250GB+) is a luxury where the money is better spent on more processing power for general gaming demands. You just get so much damn more with that R3-1200. Only case where the SSD makes sense is if you know you're building a dedicated machine for a specific game. After all, a lot of us only really play one game, and pretty much everything else is window dressing in the downtime. For example, if you kid is a hardcore CS:GO, Dota 2, WoW, or LoL player, then you're not worried about space, or more abstract potential gaming demands. You're just trying to build the most bulletproof comp for high-level performance in that specific game at the lowest budget possible.

This is where it helps to play with one's own psychology. Adding the SSD later might seem like a hassle, but it actually presents an opportunity. At some point Windows will introduce Windows 11, or an API update, or his current comp will possibly become beset by some glitch, issue, or just a general decrease in snappiness from a swelling of page files and registry. Now, instead of that feeling like a burden, it becomes an opportunity for a clean OS install on a new SSD. The SSD signifies a rehabilitation of the whole system, not just an upgrade of a single component.
 
haha I meant GB
So 190 sterling pounds? That's worse. That's fucking ridiculous.
  • £190 GBP = $250 USD
  • €190 EUR = $224 USD
16GB of DDR4 RAM has floated between $105-$135 in the USA this past year as an entry point.
 
While waiting for Coffeelake to be in stock at Canadian retailers (8700k specifically), I managed to score an insane deal on a LGA2011 combo.


Paid $250 Canadian for the following:
3930k
Asus Rampage Extreme 4
32gb DDR2400 Ram
Phantek TC14-PE

I don't need this system, I actually have two other 6 core machines in my house (x5660, 4960x), but for $250, I had to snag it. The motherboard alone is going for $250+ on ebay (x79 motherboards in general are insanely expensive.

While I am still tweaking, I have it up to 4.9ghz (4.88 to be exact).
At these speeds, it is beating the 7800x, and is only marginally slower than a stock 8700k (particularly in single threaded apps).

I am currently browsing ebay for Xeon engineering samples - While purchasing ES is technically prohibited, Ebay has a tonne of them. There is a listing for a 12 core Xeon 2697 for $200!

upload_2017-10-21_8-45-41.png
 
While waiting for Coffeelake to be in stock at Canadian retailers (8700k specifically), I managed to score an insane deal on a LGA2011 combo.


Paid $250 Canadian for the following:
3930k
Asus Rampage Extreme 4
32gb DDR2400 Ram
Phantek TC14-PE

I don't need this system, I actually have two other 6 core machines in my house (x5660, 4960x), but for $250, I had to snag it. The motherboard alone is going for $250+ on ebay (x79 motherboards in general are insanely expensive.

While I am still tweaking, I have it up to 4.9ghz (4.88 to be exact).
At these speeds, it is beating the 7800x, and is only marginally slower than a stock 8700k (particularly in single threaded apps).

View attachment 290671
Fuck me, that would have carried a Scrapyard Wars win no matter what else happened.
 
So 190 sterling pounds? That's worse. That's fucking ridiculous.
  • £190 GBP = $250 USD
  • €190 EUR = $224 USD
16GB of DDR4 RAM has floated between $105-$135 in the USA this past year as an entry point.

No. I typed MB in my post while I meant GB.
So I thought you meant that.
The currency is Euro's

Here is the list from my local PC company
I'm looking for a set of 3000mhz 2x8 GB :

https://www.mycom.nl/componenten/werkgeheugen?filter=eyJkaXNwbGF5X3ByaWNlIjp7IlRlcm1zQWdncmVnYXRpb24iOnRydWUsIlN0YXRzQWdncmVnYXRpb24iOmZhbHNlLCJWYWx1ZXMiOltdLCJGcm9tIjoiMTQiLCJUbyI6IjcxOSIsIk5lZ2F0aW9uIjpmYWxzZSwiRXhhY3RNYXRjaCI6dHJ1ZX0sInJhbV9zYW1lbnN0ZWxsaW5nIjp7IlRlcm1zQWdncmVnYXRpb24iOnRydWUsIlN0YXRzQWdncmVnYXRpb24iOmZhbHNlLCJWYWx1ZXMiOlsiMiB4IDgiXSwiTmVnYXRpb24iOmZhbHNlLCJFeGFjdE1hdGNoIjp0cnVlfX0=
 
Are you on Ryzen? Why are you after 3000MHz binning?

Remember that CAS (Latency) divided by Frequency is usually the true tale of a stick's capability for bandwidth. I keep a Google doc handy with a current bullet list for eyeballing reference:
  • CAS15/2133MHz = .00703
  • CAS14/2133MHz = .00656
  • CAS15/2400MHz = .00625
  • CAS13/2133MHz = .00609
  • CAS14/2400MHz = .00583
  • CAS15/2666MHz = .00562
  • CAS15/2800MHz = .00536
  • CAS16/3000MHz = .00533
  • CAS16/3200MHz = .00500
  • CAS15/3000MHz = .00500
  • CAS12/2400MHz = .00500
  • CAS13/2666MHz = .00488
  • CAS17/3600MHz = .00472
  • CAS15/3200MHz = .00469
  • CAS16/3466MHz = .00461
  • CAS17/3733MHz = .00455
  • CAS16/3600MHz = .00444
  • CAS14/3200MHz = .00438
  • CAS16/3666MHz = .00436
  • CAS15/3600MHz = .00417
So if you loosen up the timing on one of those green sticks, for example, you can often push up the frequency higher than in the red stick (after all, they already possess a superior native cycle speed). That isn't necessarily true, but unless you're dead set on a guaranteed 3000MHz clock, it's often a wiser strategy to pursue since RAM continues to be one of the most poorly benchmarked and understood components in the main system.
 
Are you on Ryzen? Why are you after 3000MHz binning?

Remember that CAS (Latency) divided by Frequency is usually the true tale of a stick's capability for bandwidth. I keep a Google doc handy with a current bullet list for eyeballing reference:
  • CAS15/2133MHz = .00703
  • CAS14/2133MHz = .00656
  • CAS15/2400MHz = .00625
  • CAS13/2133MHz = .00609
  • CAS14/2400MHz = .00583
  • CAS15/2666MHz = .00562
  • CAS15/2800MHz = .00536
  • CAS16/3000MHz = .00533
  • CAS16/3200MHz = .00500
  • CAS15/3000MHz = .00500
  • CAS12/2400MHz = .00500
  • CAS13/2666MHz = .00488
  • CAS17/3600MHz = .00472
  • CAS15/3200MHz = .00469
  • CAS16/3466MHz = .00461
  • CAS17/3733MHz = .00455
  • CAS16/3600MHz = .00444
  • CAS14/3200MHz = .00438
  • CAS16/3666MHz = .00436
  • CAS15/3600MHz = .00417
So if you loosen up the timing on one of those green sticks, for example, you can often push up the frequency higher than in the red stick (after all, they already possess a superior native cycle speed). That isn't necessarily true, but unless you're dead set on a guaranteed 3000MHz clock, it's often a wiser strategy to pursue since RAM continues to be one of the most poorly benchmarked and understood components in the main system.

Thanks for the list. I'm going to get a i7 7700.
3000 mhz seemed like one of the highest around so I picked that.
 
Is it worth buying a graphics card right now with a sub $300 budget? I'm looking at the EVGA GTX1060 6GB right now, but I already experienced just buying a Kaby lake setup only to see Coffee lake come out after with better price to performance.

If something in that range is gonna drop in around 3 months I'll wait it out and purchase a Ko Katana that I've been wanting in the meantime.
 
If something in that range is gonna drop in around 3 months

Only the lower end gpu cards will be dropping in price. Miners are keeping the high end gpu's high. An Nvidia wont be making any massive jumps soon like what they did with the 970 series.
 
I'm still not sure if I want a pc with a window or not.
I'm buying a lot of LED stuff like motherboard and videocard.
But it can be distracting

I find them tacky as fuck. I've owned a couple of corsair ones years back but then I came to my senses and purchased the nanoxia. I'll never own another case. I must wish the fuckin LED power button was missing. It lights up green and looks stupid as hell compared to the rest of the sleek, classy case.


na-ds1-white-large.jpg
 
Is it worth buying a graphics card right now with a sub $300 budget? I'm looking at the EVGA GTX1060 6GB right now, but I already experienced just buying a Kaby lake setup only to see Coffee lake come out after with better price to performance.

If something in that range is gonna drop in around 3 months I'll wait it out and purchase a Ko Katana that I've been wanting in the meantime.

What's your current card?


While waiting for Coffeelake to be in stock at Canadian retailers (8700k specifically), I managed to score an insane deal on a LGA2011 combo.


Paid $250 Canadian for the following:
3930k
Asus Rampage Extreme 4
32gb DDR2400 Ram
Phantek TC14-PE

I don't need this system, I actually have two other 6 core machines in my house (x5660, 4960x), but for $250, I had to snag it. The motherboard alone is going for $250+ on ebay (x79 motherboards in general are insanely expensive.

While I am still tweaking, I have it up to 4.9ghz (4.88 to be exact).
At these speeds, it is beating the 7800x, and is only marginally slower than a stock 8700k (particularly in single threaded apps).

I am currently browsing ebay for Xeon engineering samples - While purchasing ES is technically prohibited, Ebay has a tonne of them. There is a listing for a 12 core Xeon 2697 for $200!

View attachment 290671

What do you think of that TC14-PE so far?
 
What's your current card?
Nothing, this is my first pc build.
I5 6700k 16GB RAM.

Honestly the GTX 1060 does hit my needs but if something at that performance level drops in price, or something with better performance lands at around $250 I'll wait.

I just want to be able to play new fighting games like Tekken 7, Shmups, and run emulators.
 
Nothing, this is my first pc build.
I5 6700k 16GB RAM.

Honestly the GTX 1060 does hit my needs but if something at that performance level drops in price, or something with better performance lands at around $250 I'll wait.

I just want to be able to play new fighting games like Tekken 7, Shmups, and run emulators.

It doesn't look like there will be a next gen of video cards in the near future, so pull the trigger on the GTX 1060. Just make sure you get the 6gb version. Video card prices are dropping slowly, but I doubt they'll get back down to normal levels.
Do you have a monitor picked out yet? Are you familiar with G-Sync?





And welcome to the pc master race
0aRvBkG.gif
 
It doesn't look like there will be a next gen of video cards in the near future, so pull the trigger on the GTX 1060. Just make sure you get the 6gb version. Video card prices are dropping slowly, but I doubt they'll get back down to normal levels.
Do you have a monitor picked out yet? Are you familiar with G-Sync?

And welcome to the pc master race
Sounds good and ya I was planning the 6GB version.

No monitor yet I was planning on just hooking up to my tv (don't have specs on hand) that's why I'm not super concerned about super high frame rates and all that.

I do plan to get a monitor but for the purpose of graphic design so focus will be on color acuracy. I'd rather game on my big tv connected to my sound system.

Should be more welcome back to the master race. My first PC was circa 1995, then switched to laptops 10 years later and had two go to shit on me. I've been experiencing the Internet purely on my smart phone for like 6 years :eek:
 
Thanks for the list. I'm going to get a i7 7700.
3000 mhz seemed like one of the highest around so I picked that.
Oh, well, if that's the case, consider ditching this idea. If you're going Intel, then you're wasting quite a bit of money pursuing this 3000MHz bandwidth. Faster RAM on Intel systems (above DDR4-2400) offers ittle performance improvement in games; especially if you're not scaling the RAM to keep pace with an overclocked CPU/motherboard. Even for Ryzen the RAM scaling is more advantageous for production tasking instead of gaming.
https://www.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/5xjmau/ryzens_data_fabric_is_locked_12_ram_speed_faster/

Keep in mind the games that always get benchmarked are the most advanced in terms of programming and tend to benefit more from hardware improvement by harnessing the advantages, but the below video will give you an idea of how much you want to pay for this because from your link it looks like it's going to be a €69 EUR ($81 USD) premium to procure 3200MHz sticks instead of 2400MHz sticks. That's a poor value for the performance improvements we're seeing below. Meanwhile, those 2400MHz sticks might not be binned quite as well, but they're not pre-overclocked like all the 3000MHz sticks out there. You can manually overclock them yourself to get these performance gains for free by using automated software. There are YouTube videos that walk you through it. It's not abstruse, anymore.


It's becoming the new normal with Millennials (don't know what snubnoze is).

These kids are living in darkness.
 
I've been around the Internet since the early days, I just learned to get by on a smart phone. I actually wanted a break from computers too, but now I miss how much more you can do with a PC that's why I wanted one and figured building from scratch would be better than another shitty laptop.
 
What's your current card?




What do you think of that TC14-PE so far?

Honestly, I hate that cooler - I have one on my 4770k as well. It's not so much that it underperforms (It is probably tied with the Noctua DH-15 as being the best air cooler), but it is obnoxiously big, and really difficult to mount/unmount unless you have tiny hands. The issue is that there is a screw in the middle of the assembly that makes it virtually impossible to tighten without a super long (and thin) Philips head - almost everything I had in my toolbox wouldnt fit between (looking at the picture below, it is right in the middle of the two tower fins)

It is also very heavy and cause motherboards to visibly sag. The pros are that it does cool really well, and is pretty quiet. I wouldn't personally recommend it though - Most AIO water coolers are cheaper and more effective.

tc14pe_15.JPG
 

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